Fabric Inspection Procedure and Cutting Approval (Part Two)

Fabric is the main raw material for apparel industry and it takes 60-70% of total garment manufacturing cost. Once any fabric consignment received by factory material department, they have to sent those to cutting QC within 48 hours to make shade separation, lab test and physical inspection etc. To ensure that only quality fabric is using in garments, We should take some protective action and grow up fabric inspection department’s strength with qualified personnel. When quality team receives any fabric consignment for inspection from store then they will start below three different steps simultaneously to minimize finished garments rejection, increase production capability, increase factories goodwill and quality team faith etc.

1. Make shade swatch card to identify if there are any different shade within a consignment.

2. Select some rolls randomly if there is any running shading within the roll.

3. Send every shade to laboratory to get shade variation report.

4. Shrinkage Test also required to take a cutting approval.

After that Factory Qc considered below issues and my responsibility is he done the right way,

1. Visually inspects and grade from a viewing distance of one yard while the fabric is in motion. Fabric may be stopped to grade when necessary to affirm marginal defects and defects may be flagged.

2. Inspect and grade the total lengths of each role or bolt sample.

3. Assign points to the defects based upon their length within the plane of the fabric according to the following option.

4. Assign no more than a total of 4 points to any one linear yard of fabric, regardless of the number or size of the detected individual defects.

5. Assign 4 points to each consecutive linear yard in which a continuous running defect exceeds 9".

6. Assign the 4 points to each linear yard of fabric where the useable width is less than the minimum specified.

7. Assign 4 points to each seam or other full width defect or seam if applicable.

Inspection result and decided to which fabric is good for cutting:

Pass: Maximum 25 points per standard length (where standard length is 100 yards).

Yellow tag: if reject points over 25 and up to 36 point out of 100 yd. will be yellow tag based on defect conditions, location and nature by considering the following things.

1) The roll can be cut by special marker.

2) Replacing defective yd. can cut the roll, (by 100% panel inspection)

Red tag: If reject points over 36 out of 100 yd. & worst than yellow tag roll, which we can't use by above yellow tag's terms & condition this is considered as red tag.

In that Stage cutting approval given below issues considered:

Inspection at cutting section we have to monitored carefully is they done their responsibility in right way,

To reduce the defect fabrics and save the production cost for smooth production quality team are doing inspection in two steps.

Layer inspection: The main object of this inspection is whether the layers are lying properly and as per request length. Also during fabrics layering if there is any major defect in fabrics QC stop the layer for layering. QC team doesn’t accept any overlapping layer in this stage. For re-placing the reject parts QC use to keep about five yards of fabrics from every roll.

Quality inspector makes this report and submitted to cutting QC, concern cutting chief and merchandising team.

Cut panel inspection: After placing the serial number in every component of cut panel, inspection process is started from this stage. Though rolls are accepted in initial inspection still there are some defects on the roll. So quality team does sort out those defective components during cut panel inspection. QC replace the defect component from the balance fabrics, which QC kept from each roll, depends on numbering. It is mentionable that QC does record how many layers have completed from each roll to identify the fabric for replacement. The report we are following call “cut panel inspection report”.

Fabric Sourcing Procedure in Garments Industry

Sourcing the right fabric can be sometimes a tough challenge faced by apparel manufacturers. Out of the total cost of manufacturing a garment piece, the cost of fabric can contribute between 50 and 65 per cent. Furthermore, even a minor oversight in selecting the right fabric and right manufacturer may spoil the entire apparel programme. Interestingly, though the fabric constitutes the main part of a garment, many of the apparel merchandisers have a very limited knowledge about fabric. They consider fabric as another component of raw material like buttons, care labels, and hang tags or packing materials. Unfortunately, describing a fabric in terms of specification to fulfill its end use is much more complicated than communicating the requirement of any other component of a garment and many apparel merchandisers do not have the necessary knowledge or training to order the right fabric from the right manufacturer at the right price. To be on the safer side, they simply ask various suppliers to bid for their lowest price and finally select the one who offers the lowest price or the most favorable term.

Consequently we often see the adverse effects of poor fabric sourcing strategy every day in the apparel industry. Garment air shipment cost is prohibitive and applied as penalty only when the apparel manufacturer fails to deliver the consignments beyond acceptable delays. The cost of air-freight is so high that air shipment of a single consignment of garments may wipe off the profit of a few months for the garment manufacturer. A study revealed that more than 80% of all garment air shipment is caused due to poor fabric sourcing management.

Fortunately, such critical errors can be avoided when sourcing woven fabric for manufacturing garments and the procedure is easier than we think about it. When discussing with the garment buyer, do not just talk about the target price he or she is giving us. Ask about the fabric in more detail. This is not only about the counts, construction and weight of the fabric but about some important and critical points. Here are certain things to keep in mind to ensure a trouble free fabric sourcing.

So it is crucial to sourcing the right Fabric on time. Fabric sourcing can change the whole scenario and total cost of the garments.

Finished Fabric Sourcing Procedure (white or dyed):

While a factory directly source finished fabric from mills they usually follow below procedures

Research for fabric suppliers: Fabric sourcing department research for available suppliers and shortlist some of them to work with for their fabrics.

Send fabric specification: Factory sends fabric sample or fabric specifications such as count and construction, GSM, weave structure and fabric width to the supplier.

Price negotiation and payment terms: Fabric sourcing department requests for the best price quote from fabric supplier and negotiate for the best price. Negotiation is also done for delivery lead time. Once cost negotiation is done, factory confirm supplier for lap-dip development.

Lap-dip approval: Fabric supplier develops sample for multiple shades as per required colors and send to factory for approval of most appropriate shade. Factory merchant sends those lap-dips to buyers or buying agents for approval.

Raising fabric demand note: Factory merchants calculate average fabric consumption and raise fabric demand note for the complete order. Fabric demand note is approved by authorized person and handed over to sourcing department for further processing.

Raise PO for bulk order: Factory sends purchase order (PO) to the fabric supplier. In some cases supplier ask for advanced payment (part of total invoice).

Received fabric delivery: Fabric supplier sends fabric to the factory fabric store in roll or than form.

Quality and quantity checking: Once fabrics are received, factory checks for quantity and quality of the fabric whether those are as per requirement. Quality means fabric properties such as shrinkage, dimensional stability, fabric weaving and processing defects etc. In case there is variation factory intimate fabric supplier and send back for reprocessing if required. Or raise a debit note if fabric quality is poor than the quality ordered at the time of contract.

Fabric approval for bulk production: Fabrics passed in quality inspection and testing are stored for bulk cutting. For some apparel buyers finished fabric lots need to be approved from buyers.

Payment is sent to the fabric supplier: Factory releases final payment for the fabric supplier once fabric is found ok.

Greige Fabric Sourcing Procedure:

To save money in processing (wet processing) medium and large size garment manufacturers (export houses) source greige fabric from mills or power looms instead of finished fabric. They process greige fabric by their own. So, there is small variation in fabric sourcing procedure than the procedure explained above.

From development of fabric supplier to price negotiation are same as the above. Factory sources greige fabric instead of finished fabric. So, prior to use fabric for garment production, fabrics are processed. Fabric sourcing department sends gerige fabrics to dyeing mills for wet processing (scouring, bleaching, dyeing or printing). Lap-dip approval is done in prior to bulk dyeing. Once lap-dip is approved by buyer, factory confirm for bulk dyeing. Finished fabrics are in-housed follow rests of the procedures as explained above.

 Yarn Dyed Fabric Sourcing Procedure:

There is slight variation in sourcing procedures when garment factory sources yarn dyed fabrics. Instead of lap-dip factory develops bit loom for fabric design (weave of checks or stripes). Colors of the dyed yarns are approved in fabric. Rests of the procedures is same as the above.

Knitted Fabric Sourcing Procedure:

Like above knitted fabrics are also sourced as finished fabric (dyed or yarn dyed). Small variation found in knitted fabric like some factories source greige yarns instead gerige fabric and get knitting done by their own. Rests of the processes are similar to the above.

Carton Consumption & Costing

 Carton, Length: 60 cm

Width: 40 cm

Height: 40 cm

Total Area of Carton:

 =    (L+W) X (W+H) X 2     /   (100 X 100)      +3% Allowance
=   (60+40) X (40 +40) X 2   /   (100 X 100)      +3% Allowance
=   1.6    Square Meter +3% 

=1.6 +.048

=1.648 square meter

In here (BD) Average Cost of,

3 ply = 40 cents /Square meter.

5 Ply=70 Cents /square meter.

7 ply=95 cents /Square meter. 

If carton is  3 ply than multiply 4o cents to area square meter.than it will be result is per carton costing.

CONTAINER SPECIFICATIONS- Part -01

(A) 20 Feet Container:

Length; 228"xWidth; 84"xHeight; 94"

225x84x94 = 1, 288 cubic inch

1800,288/39.37x39.37x39.37=29.50CBM.

A 20 Feet container has an air capacity of 29.50 CBM, but when you ship goods packet in cartons or wooden crates, it can hold about 25-27 CBM.

(B)  40 Feet Container (standard):

Length;474"xWidth;84"xHeight;94"

474x84x94 = 3,742,704 cubic inch

3,742,704/39.37x39.37x39.37 = 61.32 CBM.

A 40 Feet container has an air capacity of 61.32 CBM, but when you ship goods packet in cartons or wooden crates, it can hold about 55-57 CBM.

(C)  40 Feet High Cube Container:

Length;474"xWidth;84"xHeight;106"

474x84x106 = 4,220,496 cubic inch

4,220,496/39.37x39.37x39.37 = 69.15 CBM.

A 40 Feet container has an air capacity of 69.15 CBM, but when you ship goods packet in cartons or wooden crates, it can hold about 65-67 CBM.

Container Specification Chart:

	L	W	H	CUFT(cubic Feet)	CBM
CONTAINER   SPC	20'	8'	8' 6"
CONTAINER	19'4 1/4"	7' 8" 5/8	7' 10"	1165
	5.899 mm	2.325 m	2.386 m
	L	W	H	CUFT	CBM
CONTAINER   SPC	40'	8"	8' 6"
CONTAINER	39' 5 5/8"	7' 8 5/8"	7' 10 1/4"	2392
	12.02 mm	2.34 mm	2.39 mm
	L	W	H	CUFT	CBM
CONTAINER   SPC	40'	8'	9' 6"
CONTAINER	39' 5"1/2	7' 8"1/2	8' 10 1/4"	2696
	12.02 mm	2.35 m	2.69 m

DIFFERENT TYPES OF DENIM GARMENTS WASHING-(Part 01)

Introduction:

The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. The direction in Fashion is varied across all areas particularly in denim dry process, whether worn or torn to wrinkled or pressed; these trends can appeal to a wide range of consumers. These can be achieved by variety of denim dry processing techniques which are mainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash-down looks to the denim fabrics. Hot spots are heavy/intense area on thigh or knee, which is made purposely to create used-look & on knee area if any whiskers lines are there, called knee star.

Different types of Dry process for Denim Wash:

Whiskering: 

whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is also known as Cat's Whisker.

After Whiskering effect Of Denim Pants

Whiskering process

Whiskering Process: 
Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans. Such as:- 

Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. This method is famous for high quality and cost effectiveness.

Sometimes separate patterns  are made and fixed on balloons to make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way but it is not much successful for broad lines.

Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently used in small industries especially where the production is not consistent to style.

In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood sticks of pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked on garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.

Sand Blasting: 

Sand Blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a very uniform result, which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effect. 

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands. On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slob patterns it flattens the look. Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Some time full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas :

Sand Blasting

Procedure of Sand Blasting: 

• Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.
• Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained between 3 – 4 kg/sq.cm.
• Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. Aluminum sand or silicon sand, Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in the chamber of the blasting machine.
• Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at 10-200 angle by hand spray pipe. 
• Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.
• The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount of sand and compressed air respectively.
• The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading effect and higher the risk of fabric damage.
• Fading is done on pre-marked areas.
• Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area should be isolated from other working areas.
• Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators should use safety equipments like hand gloves, mask and gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 – 45 garments depending upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be attained. 

Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray): 
Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area. 

Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.

PP spray effect

Process of P.P Spray: 
1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free. 

2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follows: 

• Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half feet. 

• Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required. 

Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightness.

To Be Continued.............