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Friday, January 23, 2015

Fabric Inspection Procedure and Cutting Approval (Part Two)

Fabric is the main raw material for apparel industry and it takes 60-70% of total garment manufacturing cost. Once any fabric consignment received by factory material department, they have to sent those to cutting QC within 48 hours to make shade separation, lab test and physical inspection etc. To ensure that only quality fabric is using in garments, We should take some protective action and grow up fabric inspection department’s strength with qualified personnel. When quality team receives any fabric consignment for inspection from store then they will start below three different steps simultaneously to minimize finished garments rejection, increase production capability, increase factories goodwill and quality team faith etc.
1. Make shade swatch card to identify if there are any different shade within a consignment.
2. Select some rolls randomly if there is any running shading within the roll.
3. Send every shade to laboratory to get shade variation report.
4. Shrinkage Test also required to take a cutting approval.

After that Factory Qc considered below issues and my responsibility is he done the right way,
1. Visually inspects and grade from a viewing distance of one yard while the fabric is in motion. Fabric may be stopped to grade when necessary to affirm marginal defects and defects may be flagged.
2. Inspect and grade the total lengths of each role or bolt sample.
3. Assign points to the defects based upon their length within the plane of the fabric according to the following option.
4. Assign no more than a total of 4 points to any one linear yard of fabric, regardless of the number or size of the detected individual defects.
5. Assign 4 points to each consecutive linear yard in which a continuous running defect exceeds 9".
6. Assign the 4 points to each linear yard of fabric where the useable width is less than the minimum specified.
7. Assign 4 points to each seam or other full width defect or seam if applicable.
Inspection result and decided to which fabric is good for cutting:
Pass: Maximum 25 points per standard length (where standard length is 100 yards).
Yellow tag: if reject points over 25 and up to 36 point out of 100 yd. will be yellow tag based on defect conditions, location and nature by considering the following things.
1) The roll can be cut by special marker.
2) Replacing defective yd. can cut the roll, (by 100% panel inspection)
Red tag: If reject points over 36 out of 100 yd. & worst than yellow tag roll, which we can't use by above yellow tag's terms & condition this is considered as red tag.
In that Stage cutting approval given below issues considered:
Inspection at cutting section we have to monitored carefully is they done their responsibility in right way,
To reduce the defect fabrics and save the production cost for smooth production quality team are doing inspection in two steps.
Layer inspection: The main object of this inspection is whether the layers are lying properly and as per request length. Also during fabrics layering if there is any major defect in fabrics QC stop the layer for layering. QC team doesn’t accept any overlapping layer in this stage. For re-placing the reject parts QC use to keep about five yards of fabrics from every roll.
Quality inspector makes this report and submitted to cutting QC, concern cutting chief and merchandising team.

Cut panel inspection: After placing the serial number in every component of cut panel, inspection process is started from this stage. Though rolls are accepted in initial inspection still there are some defects on the roll. So quality team does sort out those defective components during cut panel inspection. QC replace the defect component from the balance fabrics, which QC kept from each roll, depends on numbering. It is mentionable that QC does record how many layers have completed from each roll to identify the fabric for replacement. The report we are following call “cut panel inspection report”.

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