Work Study - Method in Ready Made Garment Indsutry

Application of Work study process:

Work study is a management technique by which we can determine standard time of a task and discover the easiest and most economical way of doing the job.

Work study is a scientific method which ensured measurement of work content of a job and takes recourse to better method of doing the job and thus realizes the best utilization of human, machinery and other resources of an organization

Work study is a very valuable tool of substantially improving productivity of an organization at very cheap cost; Work study is a systematic and comprehensive method of analyzing a problem, so that no factor overlook in evaluating the problem of finding out a solution. Work study can be easily implemented and at a relatively cheap cost, it’s provokes benefit as soon as it is applied and continuous till it is in use and it can reduce hazard b y developing safer mood of operations.

It the most effective tool of investigation of process, it helps find out problems and workout a right solution. Standard time can be determined for a definite work. Production quota may be determined for daily organization hourly works.

Work study is the most accurate method of setting Standard of performance upon which effective planning and production control relies upon.

Some Terms of Work Study:

Observed time:

It is the time taken by the operator to operator complete his her job as observer d time by work-study officer.

Basic time:

It is the time taken by the operator to operator complete his or her job had she or he worked at 100% performance.

Allowance time:

It is the time allowed to an operator for non performing task such as going to laboratory, rest, changing needle, taking instruction of supervisor etc.

Relaxation allowance:

It is the time allowed to an operator to attend to personal need.

Contingency allowance:

It is the time allowed to the operator when uncertain problem occur.

Standard time:

It is the time required by operator to complete a job had she worked at 100% rating plus allowance time.

Bottleneck time:

It is the highest time taken b y an operator compared to other operator’s time, generally it is the time beyond the U.C.L.

Rating

Rating is a speed of a qualified worker.

Organization efficiency

It is the efficiency of the production time.

Basic work content:

It is the time contents the work without any undue loss of time.

Work count:

It is the time value required by operation.

Ineffective time:

It is the time means time loss due to different design fault, production fault, finishing fault etc.

Upper control limit:

Upper control limit is the time limit represents efficiency.

How wok study can be realized?

Work study method comprises eight steps, which are given below,

Select: Select the job to be investigated.

Record: record data by collecting organization by direct observation.

Examine: Examine data critically; what is the purpose of action, where is the place of performing it, the sequence in which the job is done, the person doing the job etc.

Develop: Develop the easiest & the most economic methods.

Evaluate: Evaluate the results of alternatives ways of doing the job.

Define: Define new method & time & present them to the concerned people.

Install: Install new method & train persons to apply them.

Maintain: Maintain new standard practice & set control procedures.

Why bottleneck time created?

-The operator has not the right skill.

-The operator makes more rejects & rework takes time.

-The machine is definite.

-The operator is not following work standard.

- The operator is not motivated etc.

How to eliminate the bottleneck time?

-By using automatic organization high performance machine.

-By mechanizing the relevant processes.

-By using better tools, folder, special work aids etc.

-By allotting the bottle process between more than the operator.

-By improving operator skill/ speed.

-By using addition machinery/ operator etc.

Production calculation formula:

• BPT (Basic Pitch Time) = Total standard time÷ No of operator

• UCL (Upper Control Limit) = Basic pitch time÷ 0.85

• LCL (Lower Control Limit) = 2×BPT-UCL

• Organization Efficiency = BPT÷ Highest bottleneck time×100

• Productivity = per hour production ÷ Total operator

• Production Target = (No of operator×3600) ×85% ÷ Total standard time

• Actual production = 3600÷Height bottleneck time

Duties and Responsibility of a garment Merchandiser:

The major responsibility of a garment merchandiser are listed below,

• To procure or collect a garment export order.
• To estimate time schedule for the export of those garments as per l/c.
• To estimate all the raw materials needed for the garments to manufacture and export.
• To monitor collection of raw material as per time schedule.
• To monitor quantity and quality of the collected raw materials.
• To selected garment factory if needed.
• To monitor garment production progress as per time schedule.
• To monitor desired quality level of the produced garment.
• To monitor garments packing instruction.
• To monitor banking and shipment arrangement as per time schedule.
• To maintain continuous liaison with the buyer or his representative if needed.
• To maintain continuous liaison with his or her controlling authorities.
• To earn profit through garment export execution.

Different Types of Fiber

INTERLINING

Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in garment to support reinforce and control areas of garments and to remain actual shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing or bounding the fronts of jackets and coats.

Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the face and the lining of a garment, drapery, or quilt. Interlining is similar to batting, a thick layer of fiber designed to provide insulation, loft, and body to quilts, pillow toppers, and heavy winter jackets.

Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. Some interlinings are designed to be fused, while others are intended to be sewn to one or both layers of the textile. As an inner lining within textiles, interlining is used in a number of applications.

Though the consumer never sees it, interlining is the difference between a good winter coat and a great one, or lush full drapes and listless hanging fabrics.

In many cases, interlining serves as an additional layer of insulation. For example, drapes are often interlined with flannel or a similarly thick material to keep rooms warmer in winter and cooler in summer, while many winter coats and pants use a thick layer of interlining to protect the wearer from the elements.

Some of these garments also feature removable interlinings, so that they can be worn in warmer weather as well. 

Characteristics of interlinings

Factors that contribute to the aesthetics and performance of interlinings are material (fiber) content, weight and fabrication. Combinations of these factors produce the specific performance characteristics of particular interlinings

Fiber content

Fiber content contributing to the strength, hand, weight, and resiliency of an interlining. Fibers may be blended to incorporate the best properties of each. Polyester and nylon fabric are used in fiber webs, woven, and knits to contribute strength, stability, and resiliency without adding bulk and weight.

Monofilament nylon fiber may be used for stiffness and resiliency, producing a lightweight material with little bulk. This type of interlining is often used in waistbands of skirts and slacks.

The main contribution of cotton and rayon is softness and hand. Wool and hair fibers may be used in hair canvas to provide resiliency and compatibility with wool piece goods. Hair canvas is widely used in better tailored suits and coats because of its resiliency and sharp retention.

Weigh

Interlinings are available in a wide range from 0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. Heavier interlinings provide more support for heavier more structured garments such as counts and suits. Lighter-weight interlinings offer resiliency and some support, but they may provide a softer hand.

However, lighter weight interlinings may provide less support, which may decrease the stability and resiliency of garments,

Fabrication:

Interlinings are available in four basic fabrications; fiber webs, woven, knits and foam laminates. Fiber webs are the most widely used fabrication for interlinings because of their low cost, versatility, and the ease of engineering specific characteristics into the interlining. Fiber webs may have less strength but do not ravel in handling, which is a benefit during sewing operations.

The performance of interlinings made of fiber webs is very closely linked to fiber content, fabric weight in washable garments.

Fiber webs are frequently made from lightweight, strong, synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester.

Fiber webs may have fibers randomly distributed or oriented in the lengthwise direction. Randomly arranged fibers allow some stretch in any direction.

Lengthwise orientation of fabric in fiber webs provides lengthwise stability and crosswise stretch.

Pilling is a problem often associated with fiber webs since fiber webs tend to have low abrasion resistance.Over time, pilling of interlinings alters the hand of garments components and affects garment appearance.

Woven interlinings are usually plain weave and may be produced from almost any type of fabric. This fabrication is usually the most expensive and subject to raveling and shrinkage. Unless used as true bias for greater flexibility or as straight grain to stabilize a bias component, woven interlining should be cut on the same grain as the garment component for satisfactory performance.

USING AREAS OF INTERLINING

Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and consequently often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and velvet can suffer from sun damage if hung with a liner alone, and most drapers recommend the use of an interlining for the life of the fabric. In addition to protecting the fabric, the interlining also gives drapes a better form and fuller body. In quilting, a layer of interlining can offer an extra bit of fluffiness, along with warmth in the winter.

Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added layer of fabric support. In addition, they drape better, while keeping the wearer's temperature relatively stable. Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level of quality in a garment, because of the additional manufacturing time involved.

Interlinings are materials that are fused or sewn to specific areas on the inside of garments or garment components. They may provide sharp, support, stabilization, reinforcement, hand and improved performance for garments.

Also called interfacings, particularly by the home sewing industry, interlinings are the most extensively used support material in ready-to-wear. Hundreds of different interlinings are really available from suppliers that specialize in support fabrics, but interlinings with special characteristics can also be engineered to meet the needs of a specific product or manufacturer

(1) To produce and retain the desired aesthetic appearance

(2) To improve garment performance.

They are used for strength in relation to weight, low bulk, and smooth hand.

Weft insertion Rachel knits are used primarily as fusible interlinings winch adhesive applied to one surface. The weft insertion structure provides resiliency in the width, stability and control in the length, flexibility, and good drape ability with a soft hand.

This type of knit interlining is commonly used with wool and wool-blend fabrics because of their loft, soft hand, and resiliency. They are also used with knit fabric because of flexibility. Knit interlinings allow more tolerance for grain variation without affection performance than woven interlinings.

Performance:

Interlining performance may be evaluated from two different perspectives; performance during production and performance in the finished garment. Manufacturers may select certain types of interlinings to facilitate handling and improve the sew ability of fabric and garment parts.

Interlinings may be used to reduce raveling and provide stability for the sewing process. They are frequently used under embroidery to stabilize fabrics for better-executed stitching.

The performance of the interlining can alter the performance of the shell fabric. Woven interlining used in collars and front shirt bands may be cut on the bias to provide good flexibility and shaping as the garment component rolls and bends, unlike the garment.

Knit fabric used for interlinings are primary warp knit tricots, raschels, and weft insertion raschels.Foam substrates may be laminated to shell fabrics or linings to improve body and increase stiffness, durability, and warmth. Foam, which also provides insulation, may be used as interlining on budget- and moderate-priced cloth coats. Foam can provide body and shaping for an open, low-count fabric.