INTERLINING

Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in garment to support reinforce and control areas of garments and to remain actual shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing or bounding the fronts of jackets and coats.

Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the face and the lining of a garment, drapery, or quilt. Interlining is similar to batting, a thick layer of fiber designed to provide insulation, loft, and body to quilts, pillow toppers, and heavy winter jackets.

Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. Some interlinings are designed to be fused, while others are intended to be sewn to one or both layers of the textile. As an inner lining within textiles, interlining is used in a number of applications.

Though the consumer never sees it, interlining is the difference between a good winter coat and a great one, or lush full drapes and listless hanging fabrics.

In many cases, interlining serves as an additional layer of insulation. For example, drapes are often interlined with flannel or a similarly thick material to keep rooms warmer in winter and cooler in summer, while many winter coats and pants use a thick layer of interlining to protect the wearer from the elements.

Some of these garments also feature removable interlinings, so that they can be worn in warmer weather as well. 

Characteristics of interlinings

Factors that contribute to the aesthetics and performance of interlinings are material (fiber) content, weight and fabrication. Combinations of these factors produce the specific performance characteristics of particular interlinings

Fiber content

Fiber content contributing to the strength, hand, weight, and resiliency of an interlining. Fibers may be blended to incorporate the best properties of each. Polyester and nylon fabric are used in fiber webs, woven, and knits to contribute strength, stability, and resiliency without adding bulk and weight.

Monofilament nylon fiber may be used for stiffness and resiliency, producing a lightweight material with little bulk. This type of interlining is often used in waistbands of skirts and slacks.

The main contribution of cotton and rayon is softness and hand. Wool and hair fibers may be used in hair canvas to provide resiliency and compatibility with wool piece goods. Hair canvas is widely used in better tailored suits and coats because of its resiliency and sharp retention.

Weigh

Interlinings are available in a wide range from 0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. Heavier interlinings provide more support for heavier more structured garments such as counts and suits. Lighter-weight interlinings offer resiliency and some support, but they may provide a softer hand.

However, lighter weight interlinings may provide less support, which may decrease the stability and resiliency of garments,

Fabrication:

Interlinings are available in four basic fabrications; fiber webs, woven, knits and foam laminates. Fiber webs are the most widely used fabrication for interlinings because of their low cost, versatility, and the ease of engineering specific characteristics into the interlining. Fiber webs may have less strength but do not ravel in handling, which is a benefit during sewing operations.

The performance of interlinings made of fiber webs is very closely linked to fiber content, fabric weight in washable garments.

Fiber webs are frequently made from lightweight, strong, synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester.

Fiber webs may have fibers randomly distributed or oriented in the lengthwise direction. Randomly arranged fibers allow some stretch in any direction.

Lengthwise orientation of fabric in fiber webs provides lengthwise stability and crosswise stretch.

Pilling is a problem often associated with fiber webs since fiber webs tend to have low abrasion resistance.Over time, pilling of interlinings alters the hand of garments components and affects garment appearance.

Woven interlinings are usually plain weave and may be produced from almost any type of fabric. This fabrication is usually the most expensive and subject to raveling and shrinkage. Unless used as true bias for greater flexibility or as straight grain to stabilize a bias component, woven interlining should be cut on the same grain as the garment component for satisfactory performance.

USING AREAS OF INTERLINING

Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and consequently often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and velvet can suffer from sun damage if hung with a liner alone, and most drapers recommend the use of an interlining for the life of the fabric. In addition to protecting the fabric, the interlining also gives drapes a better form and fuller body. In quilting, a layer of interlining can offer an extra bit of fluffiness, along with warmth in the winter.

Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added layer of fabric support. In addition, they drape better, while keeping the wearer's temperature relatively stable. Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level of quality in a garment, because of the additional manufacturing time involved.

Interlinings are materials that are fused or sewn to specific areas on the inside of garments or garment components. They may provide sharp, support, stabilization, reinforcement, hand and improved performance for garments.

Also called interfacings, particularly by the home sewing industry, interlinings are the most extensively used support material in ready-to-wear. Hundreds of different interlinings are really available from suppliers that specialize in support fabrics, but interlinings with special characteristics can also be engineered to meet the needs of a specific product or manufacturer

(1) To produce and retain the desired aesthetic appearance

(2) To improve garment performance.

They are used for strength in relation to weight, low bulk, and smooth hand.

Weft insertion Rachel knits are used primarily as fusible interlinings winch adhesive applied to one surface. The weft insertion structure provides resiliency in the width, stability and control in the length, flexibility, and good drape ability with a soft hand.

This type of knit interlining is commonly used with wool and wool-blend fabrics because of their loft, soft hand, and resiliency. They are also used with knit fabric because of flexibility. Knit interlinings allow more tolerance for grain variation without affection performance than woven interlinings.

Performance:

Interlining performance may be evaluated from two different perspectives; performance during production and performance in the finished garment. Manufacturers may select certain types of interlinings to facilitate handling and improve the sew ability of fabric and garment parts.

Interlinings may be used to reduce raveling and provide stability for the sewing process. They are frequently used under embroidery to stabilize fabrics for better-executed stitching.

The performance of the interlining can alter the performance of the shell fabric. Woven interlining used in collars and front shirt bands may be cut on the bias to provide good flexibility and shaping as the garment component rolls and bends, unlike the garment.

Knit fabric used for interlinings are primary warp knit tricots, raschels, and weft insertion raschels.Foam substrates may be laminated to shell fabrics or linings to improve body and increase stiffness, durability, and warmth. Foam, which also provides insulation, may be used as interlining on budget- and moderate-priced cloth coats. Foam can provide body and shaping for an open, low-count fabric.

Social Compliance in Apparel Industry

To implement social compliance in an apparel industry needs to follow couple of rules which are:

a.      Licenses & Permissions: Following licenses and permission must be available in the factory:

Ø  Valid factory license.

Ø  Approved Building plan by the Government Authority.

Ø  Approved Building plan for extension of Building.

Ø  Fire License (Bangladesh Fire Service and Civil Defense Ordinance 1959).

Ø  Boiler License (The Boiler Act 1923, and The Boiler Rules 1928).

Ø  Boiler Attendant competency certificate.

Ø  Environment License.

b.      Documentation: Documents must be available at factory for verification are as follows:

Ø  Drinking water test report (Written safe drinking water).

Ø  Lab test report of waste water.

Ø  Personal file.

Ø  Attendance card.

Ø  Monthly salary/wages sheet (Including all payment).

Ø  Broken needle record procedure.

Ø  Maintenance/ Service Contract letter.

Ø  Maintenance records of all machines.

Ø   Maintenance records of Boiler, Compressor and Generator.

Ø  Accident record.

Ø  Daily medical treatment record.

Ø  First aid training record.

Ø  First aid team members list.

Ø  Fire fighting training record.

Ø  Fire fighting team list.

Ø  Fire drill record.

Ø  Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E) training record.

Ø  M.S.D.S. training record.

Ø  Safety policy.

Ø  Company policy.

c.       Compliance Representative: The factory must engage or appoint one compliance manager or officer, who will regularly monitor current information on the changes of existing local and national laws and regulations, which will immediately incorporate into the facility by informing to the appropriate management.

He must be in charge of the implementation and maintenance of all matters concerning compliance and he must have no additional duty.

Ø  Recruitment procedure:

The management must totally discourage child labor, forced labor, any type of discrimination ( direct or indirect) against any person on the ground of race, culture, values, religion, color, nationality, age, gender and marital status in the aspect of recruitment and selection.  The management must use the following procedure at the time of selection and placement of new workers:

§  Advertising for the vacant position on notice board and/or in the newspaper.

§  Short listing of the candidates based on education, qualification, and experience.

§  Conducting interview and efficiency tests.

§  Interview rating and candidate selection.

§  Age verification form educational certificate/local administration/registered medical practitioner.

§  Issuance of appointment letter along with breakup of wages and entitled benefits and the written handbook on workers rights, privilege, benefits and obligation. All copies are provided with acknowledgement of receipt.

§  Collection of joining report.

§  Briefing about workers package entitlement and benefits

§  Issuance of job confirmation/extension letter depending of performance.

Establishment of personal file with the following necessary documents:

§  Bio-data with photo.

§  Age proof document.

§  Appointment or Contract letter with receiving copy by the worker.

§  Copy of instruction to worker about personal protective Equipment. (Form example mask, metal gloves, safety guard on sewing equipment etc).

§  Leave record.

In case initially a worker is employed with 3 months probation period and based on the performance in these 3 months, the worker is either confirmed or his/her probation may be extended for another 3 months or he/she may be terminated.

1.      No Forced Or Compulsory Labor:

The factory must not use any forced labor in the form of prison labor, indentured labor, and blended labor o otherwise which is prohibited as per law of the land.

Late payments of wages and overtime will be accounted as forced labor.

2.      No Child Labor:

The company must not appoint Child Labor in accordance with ILO Convention 138 & Recommendation 146 and also in accordance with Bangladesh labor law.

No person irrespective of male and female gender, who has not completed minimum 18 years of age are not allowed to be recruited and employed for nature of job.

The company must maintain documentation “Certificate of Fitness” for each worker to be employed, that verifies the workers age and fitness. The certificate must be issued by the registered doctor and maintained in the individual personal file accompanied with a photo.

3.      No Harassment Or Abuse:

The company will ensure that no employee shall be subjected to any physical, sexual, psychological or verbal harassment or abuse.

Example:-

Verbal abuse: Chronic shouting or use of insulting or offensive language.

Verbal harassment: Chronic use of implied or direct threats.

Psychological harassment: Humiliating or intimidating verbal or non-verbal behavior including throwing of objects

Sexual harassment: unwelcome sexual advances, request of sexual favors and all other verbal or physical conduct of a sexual nature.

Physical abuse: Includes any physical contact with the intent to injure or intimidate (including throwing of objects) and discomfort.

Over time and calculation:

Overtime hours have to be voluntarily and to be compensated with the following formula on top of the normal hour wages.

Overtime rate per hour= (Basic Salary/208) X 2

The company must ensure that deduction from wages are not made for disciplinary purposes, and shall ensure that wages and benefits composition are detailed clearly and regularly for workers have a guaranty the minimum wage.

The company also needs to follow couple of act which known as “Factory Act 1965”. The act which contains is:

1.      Definitions

2.      Health And Hygiene

3.      Safety

4.      Welfare

5.      Working Hours of Adults

6.      Leave And Holidays With Wages

7.      Special Provisions

8.      Penalties And Procedure

9.      Supplement

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