Different Types of Samples are using in Fashion / Apparel Industry (Part # 01)

Sampling is one of the most important processes in garments industry which has a vital role in attracting the buyers. Normally buyers are placed an order after satisfying with the quality of samples. As its importance on garments industry, today I will discuss about the different kinds of sample used for completing an order.

There are three broad classes of samples, one for each phase. These sequential phases are based on,

q  Design

q  Sales

q  Production

These sequential phases are design, sales and production. Design related samples are to model design ideas and (ideally) finalize the pattern for production. Sales related samples are used to predict orders from buyers. The last types of samples are intended to test consistency in production. Technically (and optimally) speaking, all sampling should take place during the first phase of design (R&D) because you can’t get to selling (second phase) if you don’t have production (third phase) lined up. I’m aware practices are all over the map these days but I have tried to cover every contingency.

This list may be overwhelming because I have attempted to be all inclusive but it does not mean you will need to have all of these kinds of samples produced. There is also quite a bit of overlap depending on your operation. 

01. Sample Name: Muslin

Alternative Name: dummy, mock-up, drape

Explanation:  This is the very first concept sample, typically sewn in an inexpensive fabric. This is a concept sample, often a rough rendition of a drape sewn together. Used primarily by designers who prefer to convey design ideas in actual fabric as part of their creation process instead of drawing a sketch or, they have an idea but can’t articulate it so they put fabric to mannequin instead. It’s a loose take of your design used to visualize an idea in three-dimensional form.

02. Sample Name: Fit sample or First sample

Alternative Name: original sample, design sample, sample test garment, development sample.

Explanation: This is a sample made from the first (or production quality) pattern (which was made from the muslin or mock-up) and intended to test the designer’s idea or concept in the chosen fabrication. If design, fabrication and fit of this sample come out as planned and don’t need corrections, it is approved and becomes the prototype sample.

03. Sample Name:  Prototype

Alternative Name: proto, primary Sample

Explanation: This sample is the result of previous iterations, the version that meets the designer’s test for execution. The fit should also be as expected so it would also be a fit sample for companies that use a separate designation. Ideally, a proto sample is also a sew by as described below. If you sew in house, the prototype should be used for costing and become the production sew-by.

04. Sample Name:  Sew by

Alternative Name: pre-production sample, pre-pro, costing sample.

Explanation: This sample reflects all of the desired construction details and is used to solicit contract sewing bids (CM&T). It is called sew by because contractors use this sample to create a costing or pre-production sample. Again, ideally the prototype sample is also a sew by.

05. Sample Name:  Sizing samples

Alternative Name: size run, size set.

Explanation: Sample lot production of a style in all the intended sizes. Ideally you design sizes to target your customer profile early on in product development. This may not be possible if your silhouettes vary greatly between styles, meaning you will need to test sizes of various styles.

06. Sample Name:  Counter sample

Alternative Name: Reference samples, Floor Samples, Approval Samples.

Explanation: These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for 3 colors, buyer may need samples in any one color and swatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictly as per the specification in the order sheets. We have to get the approval for these samples from the buyer before starting Production.

   

To be Continued.....................

Different Types Of Woven Fabric Used In Garments & Fashion Industry (Part -03)

Flannel:

Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric. Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infacnt's clothing.

This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also used to protect children from cold atmosphere.

Gabardine:

Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric. It contains more number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It largely used for rain coats, suitings and sports wear.

Georgette:

Georgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too.

It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.

Kashmir Silk

Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women's wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and is usually embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.

Khadi:

Khadi is a term used to a wide variety of fabics that are hand spun and hand woven. They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are known for durability, and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.

Lawn:

Lawn is a fine sheet, light weight, crisp fabric either made in cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in dress.

To be Continued.................

Different Types Of Woven Fabric Used In Garments & Fashion Industry (Part -02)

Chintz:

Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be temporary or semi permanent glazed chintz are available in solid colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons and draperies.

Corduroy:

It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans and shirts.

Crepe:

A silk fabric is originally characterised by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.

Denim:

It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sports wear and overalls. It's use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.

Drill:

It is a warp faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in white and now it is available in solid colours. It is mairly used for pants, knickers and uniforms.

To be Continued.................

Different Types Of Woven Fabric Used In Garments & Fashion Industry (Part -01)

Buckram:

It is a stiff coated fabric made from a light weight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape rentention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waist bands, button closures etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for hand bags and other articles.

Cambric:

Cambric a light weight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It is suitable for women's dresses and children's dresses that require crispness.

Casement:

Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closesly packed thick warp yarns. Generally it is used for curtains, tablelinen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses.

Cheese Cloth:

It is popular light weight sheer fabric having open weave. It has a low count fabric consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women's and children's dresses but also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.

Chiffon:

Chiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They are used for sarees and women's evening wear. The fabrics encounter with the problem of shrinkage.

To Be Continued...........

DIFFERENT TYPES OF DENIM GARMENTS WASHING-(Part 02)

After Part 01,

Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing: 

PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.

In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by cutting hairs in different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches or other objects are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This produces random effect and looks great with dark washes in contrast.

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization.

Tinting:

Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is being used to do this process. This is being done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up indigo, reaches the level of dyeing. Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. These processes takes from 5 minutes to 25 minutes time for better results followed by dye fixing & clean up of superficial dye.

Bleach Wash:

Bleach wash or light stone wash refers to light blue shades of denim. The additional step is bleaching to stone wash. This bleaching is usually carried out by strong oxidizing agents. In industry, most widely used chemicals are sodium hypo-chlorite, calcium hypochlorite, hydrogen per oxide and potassium permanganate. Other than that many products with different brand names are available in market.

Caustic wash:

Caustic wash generally doing on Reactive dye, Sulphur dye, Direct dyed or printed Garments

Caustic wash is required for the following reasons:

• ·         To fading/old looking affect on Garment and seam abrasion affection seam area.
• ·         To remove the size materials, starch from the garments.
• ·         To increase the color fastness & rubbing fastness.
• ·         For soft feeling to wear the garments.
• ·         To increase the hairiness on garments.
• ·         To achieve the buyer reference sample.

To Be Continued.............