Different Types of Fabric Defects

Askewed or Bias: condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits.

Back Fabric Seam Impression: backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being printed.  If there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric.

Barre: occurs in circular knit.  Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine.  Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.

Birdseye: caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side.  This term should not be confused with birdseye fabric which is in fact created intentionally.

Bowing: Usually caused by finishing.  Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric width: in knits the course lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.

Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.

Color Out:  the result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.

Color Smear: The result of color being smeared during printing.

Crease Mark: differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear for an entire roll.  Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore fabric or original condition.  Often discoloration is a problem.

Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits.  Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.

Drop Stitches: results from malfunctioning needle or jack.  Will appear as holes or missing stitches.

Dye Streak in Printing: Results from a damaged doctor blade or a blade not cleaned properly.  Usually a long streak until the operator notices the problem.

End Out: Occurs in Warp knit.  Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end.

Hole: caused by broken needle.

Jerk-in: caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle.  The defect will appear at the selvage.

Knots:  caused by tying spools of yarn together.

Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit.  Results from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp.  Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Mixed End (yarn): Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric.

Mottled: Color applied unevenly during printing.

Needle Line: Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches.  Usually a vertical line.

Open Reed: results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn.  Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on warp and shuttle.

Pin Holes:  Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame.

Press-Off:  results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed.  Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad press-off occurs.  Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric.

Printing Machine Stop: Dye or ink smudged along width of fabric as a result of the printing machine stopping.

Print Out of Repair: Caused by print rollers not being synchronized properly.  This results in various colors of the design not being printed in the proper position.

Puckered Selvage: Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by uneven wetting out in sanforization process.

Runner: caused by broken needle.  The runner will appear as vertical line.  Most machines have a stopping device to stop the machine when a needle breaks.

Sanforize Pucker: Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads.  Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table.  Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension.

Scrimp: the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through tenter frames.

Slub (woven fabric): usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric.  It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn.  Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process. 

Slub (Knit fabric): Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.

Soiled Filling or End: Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on packaged-dyed yarn.

Stop Mark: when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when the loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.

Straying End:  Warp Knit.  Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.

Thin Place:  often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem.

Water Spots: Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying: color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

work Study -Part 2 (CLASSIFICATION OF BEHAVIOR)

Main operation: The operation rate of the machines should be enhanced by standardizing the work or rationalizing the of control method. Rationalized types of machine should be introduced. Ancillary facilities should be used effectively. Attachments should be adopted.

Sewing, operating an iron, Pressing, Actuation of the pulley, thread take-up and needle bar, processing the material.

Associated operation: Material handing devices should be adopted. Work benches and tacks should be improved. Training in machine operations should be developed. The material setting method should be improved.

Picking up, Placing, Changing the holding position, and setting (the materials), Cutting the thread, Fitting

Condition arrangement: The lot size should be increased. Workers should be assigned to shared work (to simplify the work allotted to each worker). Spare sewing machines and irons should be made available. The equipments should be installed in their predetermined locations.

Checking the instructions, Replacing the attachment, Adjusting the height of the chair, Spraying silicon, Adjusting the tension of the bobbin thread, Checking the temperature of the press and iron.

Product arrangement: The processes should be well-balanced. The processing order should be standardized. The shelves for product arrangement and the materials should be stored in predetermined positions. Racks and assembly tables should be used.

Preparing the materials, Changing the setting positions of the materials, Binding and undoing the materials, Checking the quantity of materials.

Trouble: Prevention and maintenance of the correct state. The thread to be used should be investigated. Needle thread should be used. How to handle the sewing machine. How to depress the foot pedal.

Re-threading the machine in case of thread breakage, Replacing a broken needle, Changing a needle, Malfunctions of the sewing machine, vacuum board or press

Preliminary arrangement: Work training. How to educate the workers. Written instructions. Report system.

Instruction, Report, Education, Consultation

Fabric Inspection Procedure (Four Point System)

FABRIC INSPECTION PROCEDURE:

This procedure shows the steps necessary to ensure an effective fabric inspection quality control program:

1. Determine the fabric quantity to be inspected.

2. Select the fabric rolls for inspection.

3. Place the fabric roll / bale on inspection frame / table.

4.Cut off a 6-inch piece across the width of the fabric from the beginning of the roll. 

Mark this piece so that the inspector will know the right and left side of the fabric. 

Use the strip to check the shading side-to-side and end-to-end by checking it at least 

against the middle of the roll and once at the end of the roll.

5.Inspect for visual defects at a speed slow enough to find the defects.

6. Check that the roll contains the meters as stated by the Fabric Supplier.

Check for bowing & skewing in the fabric

ROLL-TO-ROLL SHADE CHECKING SYSTEM:

Textile links and Controls suggests to use a format for the checking of all fabric shade variations from roll to roll. In this format water falls of different shades’ categories of different rolls is maintained and compared to each other to check the extent of the shading variation.

If any shade requires special attention / treatment in the cutting, it is mentioned in the remarks column.

If any fabric is out of tolerance with respect to the Master Sample or the shade variation extent among the rolls is out of tolerance, then the fabric is reject. The rejected fabric is sent back to Fabric Supplier for reprocessing / replacement.

TOOLS FOR FABRIC CHECKING:

The person who is responsible for fabric inspection must have the following facilities / equipment in good working condition.

1. Inspection frame with counter.

2. D - 65 light source (sunlight) / TL - 84 light source at the inspection frame as per the requirement of the customer.

3. Measuring tape & pair of scissors.

4. Stickers or masking tape to identify the faults.

5. Pick glass.

6. Digital Camera for taking reference snaps.

7. Master fabric sample or customer’s reference sample. 

Four Point System:

The four-point system derives its name from the basic grading rule that a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and that no linear meter can be assigned more than four points regardless of the number of defects within that piece.

PENALTY POINT EVALUATION:

Defects in both warp / fill directions will be assigned points under the following criteria.

CARTON MEASUREMENT USE FOR CONTAINER

Basically Carton Measurement uses for different Types of Container.Two Types of Container are used for international goods transport.
One of 20 Ft Container and 40 Ft Container.

20 Ft Container = 30 CBM (Cubic Meter)
40 Ft Container = 60 CBM (Cubic Meter)

In Carton,
Length = 40 Cm
Width = 20 Cm
High = 15 Cm

   Length X Width X Height
= (40 X 20 X 15 ) Cm
= .40 X .20 X .15
= .012
=60/.012 (If Container is 40 ft)
=5000 Cartoon

Carelevel Instruction for Apparel Items

This Chart illustrates care symbol accepted by federal trade commission as part of a conditional exemption to the FTC Care labeling Rule (16CFR 423) This chart is referenced from ASTM D5489-98c.This Symbol are used for Commercial and Home laundering Dry cleaning.