Interlining
is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in
garment to support reinforce and control areas of garments and to remain actual
shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing or bounding the fronts of jackets
and coats.
Interlining is
a layer of fabric inserted between the face and the lining of a garment,
drapery, or quilt. Interlining is
similar to batting, a thick layer of fiber designed to provide insulation,
loft, and body to quilts, pillow toppers, and heavy winter jackets.
Generally,
interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. Some interlinings are designed to
be fused, while others are intended to be sewn to one or both layers of the
textile. As an inner lining within textiles, interlining
is used in a number of applications.
Though
the consumer never sees it, interlining
is the difference between a good winter coat and a great one, or lush full
drapes and listless hanging fabrics.
In
many cases, interlining serves as an
additional layer of insulation. For example, drapes are often interlined with
flannel or a similarly thick material to keep rooms warmer in winter and cooler
in summer, while many winter coats and pants use a thick layer of interlining to protect the wearer from the
elements.
Some
of these garments also feature removable interlinings, so that they can be worn
in warmer weather as well.
Characteristics of interlinings
Factors that contribute to
the aesthetics and performance of interlinings are material (fiber) content,
weight and fabrication. Combinations of these factors produce the specific
performance characteristics of particular interlinings
Fiber content
Fiber
content contributing to the strength, hand, weight, and resiliency of an
interlining. Fibers may be blended to incorporate the best properties of each.
Polyester and nylon fabric are used in fiber webs, woven, and knits to
contribute strength, stability, and resiliency without adding bulk and weight.
Monofilament
nylon fiber may be used for stiffness and resiliency, producing a lightweight
material with little bulk. This type of interlining is often used in waistbands
of skirts and slacks.
The
main contribution of cotton and rayon is softness and hand. Wool and hair
fibers may be used in hair canvas to provide resiliency and compatibility with
wool piece goods. Hair canvas is widely used in better tailored suits and coats
because of its resiliency and sharp retention.
Weigh
Interlinings
are available in a wide range from 0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. Heavier
interlinings provide more support for heavier more structured garments such as
counts and suits. Lighter-weight interlinings offer resiliency and some
support, but they may provide a softer hand.
However,
lighter weight interlinings may provide less support, which may decrease the
stability and resiliency of garments,
Fabrication:
Interlinings
are available in four basic fabrications; fiber webs, woven, knits and foam
laminates. Fiber webs are the most widely used fabrication for interlinings
because of their low cost, versatility, and the ease of engineering specific
characteristics into the interlining. Fiber webs may have less strength but do
not ravel in handling, which is a benefit during sewing operations.
The
performance of interlinings made of fiber webs is very closely linked to fiber
content, fabric weight in washable garments.
Fiber
webs are frequently made from lightweight, strong, synthetic fibers such as
nylon and polyester.
Fiber
webs may have fibers randomly distributed or oriented in the lengthwise direction.
Randomly arranged fibers allow some stretch in any direction.
Lengthwise
orientation of fabric in fiber webs provides lengthwise stability and crosswise
stretch.
Pilling
is a problem often associated with fiber webs since fiber webs tend to have low
abrasion resistance.Over time, pilling of interlinings alters the hand of
garments components and affects garment appearance.
Woven
interlinings are usually plain weave and may be produced from almost any type
of fabric. This fabrication is usually the most expensive and subject to
raveling and shrinkage. Unless used as true bias for greater flexibility or as
straight grain to stabilize a bias component, woven interlining should be cut
on the same grain as the garment component for satisfactory performance.
USING AREAS OF INTERLINING
Interlining can
also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and
consequently often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and
velvet can suffer from sun damage if hung with a liner alone, and most drapers
recommend the use of an interlining for
the life of the fabric. In addition to protecting
the fabric, the interlining also gives
drapes a better form and fuller body. In quilting, a layer of interlining can offer an extra bit of
fluffiness, along with warmth in the winter.
Garments
with interlining tend to be stronger,
because of the added layer of fabric support. In addition, they drape better,
while keeping the wearer's temperature relatively stable. Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level
of quality in a garment, because of the additional manufacturing time involved.
Interlinings
are materials that are fused or sewn to specific areas on the inside of
garments or garment components. They may provide sharp, support, stabilization,
reinforcement, hand and improved performance for garments.
Also called interfacings, particularly by the home sewing
industry, interlinings are the most extensively used support material in
ready-to-wear. Hundreds of different interlinings are really available from
suppliers that specialize in support fabrics, but interlinings with special
characteristics can also be engineered to meet the needs of a specific product
or manufacturer
(1) To produce and retain
the desired aesthetic appearance
(2) To improve garment
performance.
They
are used for strength in relation to weight, low bulk, and smooth hand.
Weft
insertion Rachel knits are used primarily as fusible interlinings winch
adhesive applied to one surface. The weft insertion structure provides resiliency
in the width, stability and control in the length, flexibility, and good drape
ability with a soft hand.
This
type of knit interlining is commonly used with wool and wool-blend fabrics
because of their loft, soft hand, and resiliency. They are also used with knit
fabric because of flexibility. Knit interlinings allow more tolerance for grain
variation without affection performance than woven interlinings.
Performance:
Interlining
performance may be evaluated from two different perspectives; performance
during production and performance in the finished garment. Manufacturers may
select certain types of interlinings to facilitate handling and improve the sew
ability of fabric and garment parts.
Interlinings
may be used to reduce raveling and provide stability for the sewing process.
They are frequently used under embroidery to stabilize fabrics for
better-executed stitching.
The
performance of the interlining can alter the performance of the shell fabric.
Woven interlining used in collars and front shirt bands may be cut on the bias
to provide good flexibility and shaping as the garment component rolls and
bends, unlike the garment.
Knit
fabric used for interlinings are primary warp knit tricots, raschels, and weft
insertion raschels.Foam substrates may be laminated to shell fabrics or linings
to improve body and increase stiffness, durability, and warmth. Foam, which
also provides insulation, may be used as interlining on budget- and
moderate-priced cloth coats. Foam can provide body and shaping for an open,
low-count fabric.
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